What to do if the air switch keeps tripping

There was a leakage protector that always tripped. Finally, I found another property and the problem was solved. The original one is 32A (large enough), and a 25A one.
Many owners have encountered such problems. The air switch at home always trips, and they can still be pushed up after a trip, but they jump again after a while or a few hours. Is there a problem with one of the electricity sources at home or what is wrong with the air switch? What air switch should we choose?
Owner Mr. Wang ’s home appliances include bathroom heaters, water heaters, induction cookers, washing machines, cooker hoods, several lights, etc. Currently, DZ47-63 c16 230 / 400V air switch is used, but the air switch at home always trips In this case, what kind of air switch would be more suitable for Mr. Wang's situation?
The air switch in Mr. Wang's home has a high probability of taking a shower in the family at night or tripping on holidays. Therefore, when the power cord is large enough, it is recommended to choose a 4 square copper core wire. The national standard 2.5 is a bit reluctant but it can also be used (not an electric water heater). As for the leakage switch, you can choose 30A (if it is an instant water heater, you must choose 40A) The specific reference above refers to the maximum current of the water heater). At the same time, note that if the leakage switch automatically trips too many times (more than 10 times a month), the larger leakage switch (fault-free trip) must be replaced. After the leakage switch has been used for more than 5 years It must be replaced even if it is working properly.
This has not been the case in the past. Most of them jump occasionally when the load is too heavy. Recently, I do n’t know how to do it. It always trips at about 6:30 every night, and the electricity load is not large at all. ????
It may be that the undervoltage protection is working. The new air switch generally has four kinds of automatic protection: 1 overload protection; 2 short circuit protection of the circuit; 3 leakage protection; 4 undervoltage protection, and the power consumption peak at 6 o'clock in the evening, the voltage of the old house is lower than the normal value Especially prominent.
There are two kinds of situations, tripping the contact protector, the reset button of the contact protector will pop up, and must be pressed to close the switch. This is caused by leakage and has nothing to do with the switch. Another case is a trip switch, which can be closed without pressing the reset button. There is also a case where there is a jump switch along the edge, that is, there is no electricity, and the switch is re-opened and then there is electricity. This is a problem with the internal contacts of the switch. The term is called over travel. Afterwards, it must be pressed in the direction of the contact, with a distance of 2 to 3 mm, so as to ensure that the contact can be in close contact, achieve good conduction, and prevent the contact from heating. Grounding protection)
A friend found the reason for me! The wiring hole above the leakage protector has a wire that is not inserted in the hole. It happened to be close to the patch that was tightly tightened, so even if the screw was tightened, it was also a poor contact. As soon as there was a high-power electrical appliance, it fell off!
First check the fire line above the air switch to see if the line is live in the card! Calculate the power of the air conditioner and refrigerator in your home. Divide the total power of the air conditioner and refrigerator by 220 to see what the current is! I know if it is a small open! If the air gap is small, the problem can be solved easily. If not, it is estimated that a professional
Help you check the line!
The average household entry line is four square meters. Your air switch is not small. Otherwise, the wire from the main switch to the air conditioner socket is too thin, and the load of the air conditioner is too large. So jump.
The air switch is small or aging, just change it to 25A or 32A. If you still jump, you must find an electrician to see our factory. When I go to work during the day, I don't trip very much .. Every night in the morning, it always opens (I do n’t know whether it is an open, or a leakage switch.) Old jump ... After jumping, I pushed it back and returned to normal. . After an hour or two, it jumps again .. What's going on? ((The main switch of the internal distribution box jumps outside without jumping.) Oh, yes .. Our factory uses a lot of electricity during the day to work. .. There is no electricity at night. There is a 1.5 hp air conditioner and a small refrigerator. It will not change when overloaded ... The frequency of jumping at night is higher than during the day ... What is the reason?
The reason for your tripping of the air circuit breaker is nothing more than the following points, overload, electrical appliances or lines with leakage, and the air circuit mechanism is damaged. You can use the elimination method to check. Caused by excessive incoming line voltage. For the open circuit problem, change the first one, the switch has a problem, second, if it is an air switch, the line is overloaded, if there is a leakage switch, there is a leak in the line, and third, you check whether the line joint or the terminal is loose , Reinforce as soon as possible.
The leakage protector tripping is different from the air switch tripping, you should figure this out first! If you say it should be a leakage protector trip, the load switch should not, unless someone steals your electricity. Focus on checking electrical circuits or electrical equipment for leakage.
My factory dormitory. In the power distribution cabinet. There is a total air switch of 400A. There are 7 100A empty switches. All are dormitory buildings. Electricity is used. However, this 400A empty switch trips from time to time. Workers go to work during the day. The volume is very small. I always jump. The beginning of the 100A does not jump. What can I do
The following reasons can cause the 400A switch to trip
1. This new switch is simply bad. There are possibilities, but it's not big.
2. Three-phase unbalance, the load is concentrated on a certain phase, this possibility is smaller than the previous one.
3. It is a 400A leakage protection switch, and the line leakage current exceeds the protection value.
4. It is common for someone in the dormitory to use poor quality electrical appliances or sockets.
5. The switch wiring is loose and the temperature at the joint is too high. This is also possible.
This is also my problem. I do n’t see the second level short jump, I jump from the first level protection
I have ruled out the answers to the upstairs. Are there any new explanations downstairs? Come out and let everyone learn
Hey ... get it right ... just connect the zero line and the 400A open circuit directly ... it won't jump.
Can it still play its protective role?
There is a mistake in the eye ... it is equivalent to the space switch ... there is no leakage protection function, but it is okay. It will be used for a year. It is okay ...
It may also be due to leakage of individual live wires. Simply reverse the neutral and live wires.
Our factory just jumped because of poor thread contact
The 400 ampere main gate should only be provided with overload protection, and each shunt switch should be equipped with a switch that has both overload protection and leakage protection, so that if there is a fault in any way, it can be eliminated in time. In addition, the method of removing the direct connection of the zero line is not desirable. It is a blessing that you have not had an accident for more than a year. However, in general, there are very few accidents.
The main switch has leakage protection, so the leakage protection switch should be installed on each shunt control point. If there is leakage underneath, he will jump the shunt leakage switch, so it will not jump the main switch. I have seen this situation too
Bad contact. See if the line has black dots or other.
Due to frequent jumping, the internal contacts are ablated, and the contact heating is serious, causing tripping. You can replace a second-hand house bought by the same model of the open air. After simple decoration this year, the original decoration circuit has not moved, and the main electrical appliances have not increased. I just changed the electrical appliances and lived for two months. It has been normal for a few days. The total open circuit has always been tripped. It can be used when pushed up, and it will jump again after a while; disconnect all the open circuits of the branch circuits, that is, all lines are not used Power, always open or trip; ask the master: what is the reason? Urgent! Thank you!
Get a new air switch! Also, it may be that the line is not in good contact. The six-family people on the first floor why my house's air switch always trips. I think the air switch is broken. If I change the new one or keep tripping, I can't even bring a water heater that burns water.
First of all, the problem of air circuit breakers should be ruled out. At present, 36A is generally used for home air circuit breakers. The problem of aging power lines in your home is initially estimated. The next step is to troubleshoot. It is recommended that you find a professional electrician.
Connect the incoming line of the air circuit first, and don't connect the load line first. Try to close the brake, such as tripping, it is the fault of the air circuit. If not, connect the load line (remember to unplug all the sockets first), turn on the light, and see if it does not jump. If you do n’t, if there is a trip at one of the test sockets, check the socket. line.
Look at the total power of the appliances that may be opened together at home, then divide by 220 to get the current number, and then buy the air switch at a value 30% higher than the frequency. If you choose 20a or more, the wire diameter should be kept at 4mm or more.

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